Remodeling Older Homes in Central Oregon: Structural Upgrades Before Cosmetic Remodel for Updating 1970s and 1980s Homes

If you own a 1970s or 1980s house in Bend, Sisters, or Redmond, you’ve probably had at least one of these thoughts.
Why is my floor sloping like a ski run?
Why do half the outlets feel “tired” when I plug in a space heater?
Why is my furnace either roasting me or doing nothing?
And the big one.
If I remodel the kitchen, am I about to uncover a nightmare behind the walls?

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Here’s the truth I’ve learned from working on homes around Awbrey Butte, NW Crossing, and Pilot Butte.
The fastest way to blow your budget is to start with cosmetics before you handle the structure and the core systems.
Paint is cheap.
Fixing a foundation after you’ve installed new cabinets is not.

Key takeaway: If you want a remodel you don’t regret, you lead with structure and systems, not finishes.

The “Why Now” Behind Updating 1970s and 1980s Homes in Central Oregon (And Why Waiting Gets Expensive)

Most 70s and 80s homes in Central Oregon were built with good intentions.
They were not built for today’s loads, today’s comfort expectations, or today’s code.

Aging infrastructure isn’t “maybe” in these houses.
It’s guaranteed.
Electrical connections loosen over decades.
Plumbing lines corrode or clog with mineral buildup.
Ductwork leaks air into attics and crawl spaces.
Insulation levels are often far below what you’d choose today.

Codes have also moved on.
The National Electrical Code updates on a 3-year cycle.
That doesn’t mean your house is unsafe by default.
It does mean your house likely lacks modern safeguards like GFCI and AFCI protection where they’re now expected.

Energy standards moved too.
The U.S. Energy Information Administration has consistently shown heating is one of the largest energy uses in homes.
In a high desert climate, that’s not trivia.
That’s your winter bill.

Now layer on Central Oregon’s climate reality.
We get big temperature swings.
Freeze-thaw cycles that punish exterior details.
Snow loads that expose roof weaknesses fast.
Wind-driven weather that finds bad flashing like a heat-seeking missile.

And yet older neighborhoods are still a steal in the right way.
You often get:
Bigger lots than newer developments
Mature trees and landscaping you can’t “buy” quickly
Locations close to trails, schools, and downtown conveniences

That’s why remodeling older homes is such a strong move here.
You’re buying location and land.
Then you’re upgrading the shelter.

Key takeaway: Central Oregon rewards smart remodels because climate stress + aging systems make “do nothing” the most expensive plan.

The 1970s and 1980s Home Problem No One Wants to Talk About (Until Demo Day)

These homes tend to share the same pain points.
Not all of them, but enough that I expect it on day one.

Common systems issues I watch for in this era:
Electrical panels that are undersized for modern living
Not enough circuits for kitchens with today’s appliances
Outlets that are poorly placed for how people actually live
Plumbing that has seen 40+ years of wear, corrosion, or patchwork repairs
HVAC equipment that’s long past peak efficiency
Ducting that was never designed for comfort zoning or balanced airflow

Then there’s the design baggage.
A lot of 70s and 80s floor plans were built around separation.
Small kitchens.
Formal dining rooms that sit empty.
Hallways that eat square footage.
Closed-off living areas that block natural light.

But here’s the good news.
The bones are often solid.
In many Central Oregon homes of this era, the framing is workable, the footprint makes sense, and the lot is great.
That means you can modernize without needing to scrape and rebuild.

Budget reality matters too.
In Central Oregon, full, high-quality remodels can land at $580+ per square foot depending on scope, finishes, and structural complexity.
That number shocks people.
Until they see what a full upgrade actually includes.
Structure, mechanicals, insulation strategy, windows, permits, trades, and real project management.

Timeline reality matters just as much.
Planning and design can easily run 5+ months when you do it right.
Selections, engineering, permit cycles, and long-lead items are the bottleneck more often than labor.

One more thing people don’t like hearing.
Older home renovation is not “HGTV clean.”
You don’t know everything until you open walls.

I’ll give you a real example from a remodel I was involved in locally.
We opened a wall for what the homeowner thought was a simple layout change.
Behind it, we found old water staining that had been “handled” years earlier with paint, not repairs.
The framing wasn’t totally destroyed, but it was soft enough that leaving it would’ve been a future failure.
If we had already installed new flooring and cabinets, the fix would’ve meant tearing out brand-new work.
Because we sequenced it correctly, we fixed it early, reinforced the area, and moved on with a clean slate.
That one discovery paid for the cautious approach all by itself.

Key takeaway: 70s and 80s houses are full of opportunity, but they only reward you if you expect surprises and plan for them.

Structural Upgrades Before Cosmetic Remodel: The Order That Saves Your Budget (And Your Sanity)

I’m going to be blunt.
If you skip structural upgrades before cosmetic remodel work, you’re gambling.
And the house always collects.

A good inspection is where this starts.
Not a quick walk-through.
A real evaluation that looks for:
Foundation movement or cracking patterns
Moisture paths and water intrusion
Roof condition and flashing quality
Electrical hazards and capacity limitations
Plumbing failures or materials past their service life

Why does structure come first?
Because structure is the platform everything else sits on.
If your floors aren’t level, your tile layout becomes a fight.
If your framing is compromised, your open-concept dream can turn into an engineering emergency.
If your roof leaks, your new drywall becomes landfill.

This is also a sequencing game.
You can’t do finish carpentry before you fix framing.
You can’t place cabinets before you confirm walls are plumb.
You can’t plan lighting before you know what beams and ducting will stay or move.

Key takeaway: Structure first isn’t “extra.” It’s the only way to avoid rework and regret.

The Big Four Structural Targets in Remodeling Older Homes (What I Check Every Time)

1) Foundation and leveling issues that show up as “weird little quirks”

In Central Oregon, I see a lot of homeowners normalize signs that are actually warnings.
Doors that don’t latch.
Cracks that keep reappearing after you patch them.
Floors that feel bouncy or sloped.

Common root causes include:
Settlement over time
Poor drainage directing water toward the foundation
Moisture in crawl spaces leading to movement and deterioration
Inadequate support posts or beams in certain spans

What I focus on first:
Where is the water going during snowmelt and spring rains?
Is the crawl space dry and ventilated correctly?
Are cracks cosmetic, or do they suggest movement?
Is there a clear plan to stabilize before we build on top of it?

Key takeaway: If the foundation isn’t stable and dry, every cosmetic upgrade is sitting on a moving target.

2) Framing and wall adjustments when you want an open floor plan

Everybody wants to “open it up.”
That’s fine.
But in a 70s or 80s home, walls you think are decorative often carry real loads.

When we remove or modify load-bearing walls, we usually need:
Engineering input for beams and posts
Temporary shoring plans during demo
New footings or point-load support depending on the span and direction of joists
Clean framing transitions so drywall and trim don’t crack later

Sagging ceiling joists also show up in this housing era.
Sometimes it’s long spans.
Sometimes it’s prior DIY work.
Sometimes it’s just time.

Key takeaway: Open concept is a structural project first, a design project second.

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3) Roof and exterior envelope: the “boring” work that protects everything

Central Oregon weather doesn’t care about your new kitchen.
If your roof and exterior envelope are weak, water will find a way.

Exterior work I take seriously includes:
Roof repairs or replacement where needed
Proper flashing at chimneys, valleys, and roof-to-wall transitions
Siding that’s actually keeping wind-driven moisture out
Window and door frames that aren’t rotting or leaking air
Water management details that move runoff away from the building

If you want one stat that matters here, it’s this.
The Insurance Institute for Business & Home Safety (IBHS) has long emphasized that water intrusion is one of the most common and costly sources of residential damage.
Most of that damage starts at transitions.
Flashing and detailing, not “big obvious holes.”

Key takeaway: The exterior envelope is your home’s armor. Upgrade it before you upgrade the look.

4) Systems infrastructure hidden in walls: the expensive stuff you only want to pay for once

Structural upgrades before cosmetic remodel also means planning the hidden systems early.
Because systems rough-ins are where “simple remodels” turn into full gut jobs.

The big three:
Electrical panel capacity and wiring condition
Plumbing supply and drain lines, plus venting
HVAC equipment, ducting, and airflow design

Even if we’re not doing a full rewire, I want to know:
Does the panel support today’s loads?
Will the kitchen need dedicated circuits?
Are there safety upgrades required by code when we touch certain areas?

For plumbing, I want clarity on:
Pipe materials and condition
Pressure and fixture performance expectations
Where we can relocate lines without creating future maintenance nightmares

For HVAC, I’m thinking:
Is the equipment sized correctly for the remodeled house, not the original one?
Do we need better ducting for airflow and comfort?
Would zoning make sense for a multi-level older home?

Key takeaway: If you don’t plan systems early, you’ll either overpay later or settle for a “pretty” remodel that still lives poorly.

Central Oregon Remodel Reality Check: Snow Loads, Freeze-Thaw, Permits, and Inspections

This region has some remodel rules you can’t ignore.
Not because contractors are picky.
Because physics is.

Snow load capacity matters when you touch roofing and structure.
Insulation and air sealing matter because temperature swings punish leaky homes.
Freeze-thaw durability matters for exterior details, patios, and any water management mistakes.

Permits matter too.
Structural changes.
Major electrical and plumbing work.
HVAC replacements in many situations.
These aren’t “optional paperwork.”
They’re how you protect resale value and reduce liability.

Most jurisdictions also require inspections at multiple stages.
That’s annoying if you’re trying to rush.
It’s great if you’re trying to avoid hidden defects.

Key takeaway: Central Oregon codes and climate aren’t red tape. They’re guardrails.

What Structural Work Really Does to Your Budget and Timeline (And Why It’s Still Worth It)

Structural and systems work usually takes the biggest bite early.
That can feel painful because you don’t “see” it the way you see new countertops.
But it’s the work that stops future leaks, failures, and redo costs.

What I tell homeowners to expect:
Structural work often consumes the largest portion of the budget at the start
Older homes almost always reveal at least a few surprises during demolition
A contingency buffer isn’t pessimism, it’s professionalism
Sequencing prevents rework, which is the fastest way to burn money

If you’re trying to manage costs responsibly, one lever that can help is owner involvement.
Some homeowners can handle limited demo, dumpsters, or material sourcing.
But only if it’s coordinated and safe.
The moment it delays trades or creates cleanup issues, it can backfire.

Key takeaway: Structural work feels invisible, but it’s the reason your remodel lasts.

If You Want the Clean “After” Photos, You Start with the Dirty Work

At this point you can probably see the pattern.
The best-looking remodels are usually the best-built remodels.
And the best-built remodels start with structure and core systems.

Next, I’ll get into the systems phase in plain language.
Electrical, plumbing, and HVAC upgrades that make 1970s and 1980s homes in Central Oregon feel like brand-new houses without losing the neighborhood you bought for.

If you’re considering a kitchen remodel, bathroom remodel, full home renovation, or even an ADU or DADU in the Bend area, I handle projects like this with an all-in-one design and build process through DCR Northwest. I work exclusively around Bend and nearby areas like Awbrey Butte, Awbrey Glen, NW Crossing, Pilot Butte, Sisters, and Redmond. Phone: 541-699-2502 Email: matt@dcrnorthwest.com

transforming 1990s kitchens

full home renovation

Electrical, Plumbing, and HVAC Upgrades: Where Comfort Begins

Electrical, plumbing, and HVAC upgrades are where older homes either become effortless to live in… or they stay “charming” in the worst way. This is the phase where comfort, safety, and long-term reliability get locked in. And it’s the phase most people under-budget because none of it shows up in the Instagram reveal photos.

Key takeaway: The systems phase is what makes a 1970s or 1980s home feel new without changing the address.

The Electrical Upgrade That Stops the “Why Does My House Hate My Toaster?” Problem

If your home was built in the 70s or 80s, it was designed for a different lifestyle. Fewer appliances, less electronics, no EV chargers, no hot tubs, and no home offices running all day.

What I commonly see in Central Oregon remodels:
- Panels that are undersized for how people actually live now
- Circuit layouts that don’t match modern kitchens
- Not enough dedicated circuits for microwaves, dishwashers, disposals, and countertop appliances
- Too few outlets, in the wrong places, leading to power strips everywhere
- Bathrooms and exterior outlets that need modern GFCI protection
- Bedrooms and living areas where AFCI protection may be required when circuits are modified (depending on scope and jurisdiction)

A stat worth knowing: The Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI) has long emphasized that electrical malfunctions remain a leading cause of residential fires in the U.S. So when I recommend an electrical upgrade, it’s not a “nice-to-have.” It’s risk management.

Here’s how I think about electrical planning in an older home: Capacity first, then layout, then convenience.

Capacity Questions to Consider

Do we need a panel upgrade to support the new kitchen, added lighting, and modern HVAC equipment? Are we adding an EV charger now or soon? Are we adding an ADU or DADU later that will require its own electrical planning?

Layout Questions to Prevent Daily Annoyance

Where do you actually charge devices? Where will lamps go in real furniture layouts? Do you want under-cabinet lighting, toe-kick lighting, or both? Do you want more recessed lighting, or a mix of recessed plus decorative fixtures so the home doesn’t feel like an office?

Personal experience from a Bend-area remodel: A homeowner told me, “We just want nicer finishes and a few new lights.” Once we mapped the kitchen appliances, added under-cabinet lighting, planned island outlets, and accounted for a future heat pump, the existing panel plan didn’t pencil out. If we had ignored that and pushed ahead, they would’ve ended up with nuisance trips and limitations for years. We upgraded strategically once, passed inspections cleanly, and the home immediately felt calmer to live in.

Key takeaway: Panel capacity and circuit planning are the difference between a remodel that looks good and a remodel that works.

Plumbing Upgrades: The Part of the Remodel You Only Notice When It’s Bad

Plumbing in older homes rarely fails in a dramatic Hollywood way. It’s usually slower than that. Reduced pressure, mineral buildup, fittings that have been “temporarily” repaired for 12 years, drain lines that work fine until you add a new fixture location and suddenly you’re chasing slope and venting issues.

In 70s and 80s homes, I pay close attention to:
- Supply line condition and material
- Shutoff access and logical placement
- Drain, waste, and vent layout (especially if you’re moving a kitchen sink or adding a laundry)
- Water heater sizing based on real use, not the old setup
- Freeze risk in crawl spaces and exterior walls

We also have a Central Oregon detail people forget. If you’re relocating plumbing in exterior walls, you better have a real plan for insulation and freeze protection. Because when it gets cold here, it’s not polite about it.

A research-backed point that matters: The EPA has stated that household leaks can waste significant water annually, and “fixing easily corrected household water leaks can save homeowners about 10 percent on their water bills.” That’s not just about saving money. It’s about removing hidden risk.

The best plumbing upgrades are the boring ones: New supply lines where condition is questionable, thoughtful shutoffs so maintenance doesn’t require shutting down half the house, clean venting so drains work correctly and don’t gurgle, access panels where future servicing is predictable.

Key takeaway: Plumbing is easy to ignore until it ruins a cabinet, a ceiling, or your patience.

HVAC in Central Oregon: Comfort Isn’t a Luxury, It’s the Baseline

If your HVAC is original or near-original, you’re not just paying more to heat and cool. You’re living with uneven rooms, noisy airflow, and a system that wasn’t designed for the home you’re creating.

When you remodel and change the layout, you change the heating and cooling needs. More open space, more windows, different insulation and air sealing, sometimes vaulted ceilings, sometimes finished basements.

I like to treat HVAC as a whole-house comfort plan, not a box replacement.

What we look at:
- Proper sizing based on the remodeled home, not the original one
- Ductwork condition, routing, and leaks
- Return air placement so rooms don’t feel stuffy or under-ventilated
- Zone control if you’ve got multiple levels or a primary suite that always runs hot or cold
- Smart thermostat integration that people will actually use

A stat to frame why this matters: The U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) consistently reports space heating as one of the largest household energy uses. In a high desert climate, HVAC decisions are not a small detail.

Key takeaway: HVAC is where remodel comfort is won or lost, and duct design matters as much as equipment.

Now That the House Works: Making It Feel Modern

Once structure and systems are handled, design gets fun. But it still needs strategy. Especially in 70s and 80s homes where the layout was built for a different era.

The goal isn’t to erase the house. The goal is to make it live like 2026 without feeling like it got copy-pasted from a showroom.

Starting With “Are the Bones Worth Keeping?”

Before I talk about finishes, I want clarity on: Which walls are worth keeping for cost and structural simplicity, which areas are stealing square footage with hallways and dead zones, where natural light could be borrowed or increased, what parts of the home already have good proportions.

Sometimes the best move is subtraction: Remove a wall, widen a doorway, adjust a closet, steal 18 inches from a hallway that nobody loves.

And yes, sometimes we preserve original elements if they’re genuinely good: Solid framing, a fireplace that can be refaced instead of demolished, timber details that add warmth in a way new materials can’t fake.

Key takeaway: The best designs start with what’s already working, then fix what’s not.

Open Concept Without Regret: The Rules Nobody Posts Online

You can open up a house and still keep it functional. The trick is not turning your main floor into one giant echo chamber.

A smart “open” plan usually keeps some definition through:
- Ceiling details or beams
- Kitchen islands that create boundaries without walls
- Flooring transitions used sparingly and intentionally
- Lighting zones that separate dining, cooking, and living areas
- Strategic partial walls or built-ins that keep storage and structure

Natural light upgrades are often the biggest “feels new” lever. If the budget allows, adding or resizing windows or adding skylights can change the entire mood of a home. But it has to be done with the exterior envelope in mind: Flashing, water management, proper install, no shortcuts.

Key takeaway: Open concept should improve life, not create noise, glare, and storage problems.

Kitchen Remodels in Older Homes: Layout Beats Luxury Every Time

Most kitchen pain in 70s and 80s homes comes down to layout: Tiny work zones, bad appliance placement, no landing space near the stove or fridge, a kitchen that isolates the cook from everyone else.

My upgrade priorities in older Central Oregon kitchens:
- Layout first, before materials
- Enough circuits and outlets in the right places
- Ventilation that actually vents outside
- Durable surfaces that handle real family use
- Storage that matches modern groceries and appliances

Common value-add moves: Adding an island if space allows, opening a wall to connect kitchen and living, building a pantry that ends countertop clutter, choosing simple, timeless finishes that won’t date in five years.

Key takeaway: A beautiful kitchen that’s awkward to use is still a bad kitchen.

Bathroom Remodels: Where Older Homes Quietly Hurt Resale and Daily Life

Bathrooms in this era often have: Tight layouts, weak ventilation, single vanities where two people are trying to share mornings, limited storage, tubs and showers that feel dated or hard to maintain.

Primary suite upgrades can be transformative when done right: Dual vanities when space allows, walk-in showers with practical niches and lighting, better fan ventilation and moisture control, storage that’s designed, not improvised.

Secondary bathrooms matter too. If you have family or guests, that bathroom is part of the home’s reputation. And if accessibility is a concern, widening doorways and planning clearances is easier during a remodel than during an emergency.

Key takeaway: Bathroom upgrades pay you back in comfort every day, not just on resale.

Flooring and Finishes: The “One Decision” That Makes the Whole House Feel Intentional

A lot of older home remodels feel choppy because each room gets a different idea. One of the simplest ways to make a remodel feel high-end is consistency.

A good finish strategy looks like: A unified flooring plan on main levels where possible, a calm color palette that works with Central Oregon light, warm materials that don’t fight winter and don’t look cold in summer, durability that matches dogs, kids, snow boots, and real life.

I’m a fan of timeless combinations that don’t rely on trends to feel “updated.” Think clean contrasts plus warmth, and materials that you can refinish or maintain without panic.

Key takeaway: Cohesive finishes make even modest remodels feel expensive.

Basements, Outdoor Living, and Primary Suites: The High-Impact Projects People Underestimate

If you want the biggest lifestyle jump, these are the three categories that often deliver it.

Basement Finishing: The Square Footage You Already Own

A basement remodel can create: A media room, a guest suite, a home office that’s actually quiet, a bar or entertaining space, a kid zone that saves your main floor.

But basements come with rules: Egress, moisture control, mechanical planning.

I’ve seen basement projects go sideways when people treat them like a normal interior remodel. They’re not. They’re below grade, and water always wins if you don’t respect that.

One project memory that still sticks with me: We were finishing a lower level and the homeowner wanted the cleanest ceiling possible. Once we got into it, we realized the mechanical layout would box in the entire space unless we relocated and tightened the system routes. It wasn’t glamorous work. But by shifting key runs and planning soffits intentionally, we gained back headroom and the basement stopped feeling like a cave. That one decision made the difference between “extra space” and “favorite space.”

Key takeaway: A great basement is engineered comfort plus code compliance, not just drywall and carpet.

Outdoor Living in Central Oregon: Build It for the Weather You Actually Get

Outdoor spaces are huge here. But they need to be built for: Freeze-thaw cycles, snow loads in the wrong places, drainage that doesn’t create ice rinks, materials that don’t get destroyed after a few seasons.

Popular outdoor upgrades that make sense: Covered patios, composite or properly detailed wood decks, outdoor kitchens with weatherproof cabinetry and correct utility planning, fire features that extend the shoulder seasons, pergolas and shade structures that don’t become maintenance problems.

Key takeaway: Outdoor living works here when it’s detailed for water, snow, and sun, not just looks.

Primary Suite Upgrades: The Remodel That Changes Mornings

A smart primary suite upgrade is less about luxury and more about function: Better layout, more storage, better lighting, better ventilation, less daily friction.

When we reconfigure these spaces, we often eliminate wasted square footage and redistribute it where it matters. Closets that work, bathrooms that flow, bedrooms that can actually fit furniture without weird corners.

Key takeaway: The best primary suite upgrades feel like someone finally designed the space for adults.

The Remodeling Process That Keeps You Out of Trouble

The process matters as much as the craftsmanship. Because older homes punish assumptions.

Here’s the sequence that keeps projects sane: Inspection and real assessment, design and engineering where required, clear budgeting with a contingency buffer, permits pulled correctly, demolition with safety in mind (including lead/asbestos awareness depending on conditions), structural corrections, systems rough-ins (electrical, plumbing, HVAC), inspections at each stage, insulation and air sealing strategy, drywall, finishes, flooring, cabinetry, final inspections, walkthrough, punch list, warranty closeout.

If you’re wondering why planning can take 5+ months, this is why: Design iterations, engineering, permit cycles, long-lead materials, trade scheduling.

And if you’re wondering why a detailed contract matters, it’s because change orders are where budgets go to die. If your scope of work and allowances aren’t clear, the project will drift.

Key takeaway: Process prevents panic, and paperwork protects you as much as it protects the builder.

Cost, ROI, and Financing: The Money Conversation Most People Avoid

Remodeling in Central Oregon isn’t cheap when you do it right. All-in remodels can land around $580+ per square foot depending on scope, finishes, and complexity. That’s not a scare tactic. That’s the reality of labor, permitting, project management, and the cost of doing structural and systems work correctly.

The smartest budget framework I’ve seen for older homes: Structure and envelope often take the biggest bite early, mechanical systems are usually the next major bucket, finishes are where you can scale up or down without risking the house.

If you want higher ROI, prioritize the upgrades buyers and appraisers recognize: Kitchens, bathrooms, energy efficiency and comfort upgrades, quality windows and doors where needed, functional layouts and added usable square footage.

Financing options people commonly explore: Home equity loans or HELOCs, rehab-focused loans like FHA 203(k) (fit depends on the project and borrower), phasing the remodel so the home stays livable while work progresses.

Key takeaway: The best ROI comes from fixing what scares buyers and improving what they use daily.

Hiring the Right Contractor: The Filter That Saves You

If you’re hiring for a 70s or 80s remodel, you want someone who expects problems, not someone who sells you optimism.

What I’d look for if I were the homeowner: Proven experience with older homes, clear approach to structural and systems planning, strong subcontractor relationships (because good trades are booked out), permitting familiarity in Central Oregon, a communication rhythm you can trust, a real change order process, references from recent projects, not just the greatest hits.

Questions worth asking: How do you handle unexpected discoveries during demolition? How do you estimate and track allowances? Who is my day-to-day contact? How often do I get schedule and budget updates? What’s included in your warranty and post-project support?

Key takeaway: The right builder doesn’t promise “no surprises.” They promise a plan for surprises.

Starting With the Right Upgrades

If you’re still tempted to start with cosmetic updates, ask yourself this: If you remodel the kitchen first and later find bad wiring, plumbing leaks, or structural movement, what happens? You pay twice. You live through chaos twice. And you risk damaging brand-new finishes.

If you start with structural upgrades before cosmetic remodel work, what happens? You build on a stable platform. You modernize the hidden systems once. And your finishes stay finished.

If you’re considering a kitchen remodel, bathroom remodel, full home renovation, or an ADU or DADU in the Bend area, I run these projects through DCR Northwest with an all-in-one design and build team. We work exclusively around Bend and nearby areas like Awbrey Butte, Awbrey Glen, NW Crossing, Pilot Butte, Sisters, and Redmond. Phone: 541-699-2502, Email: matt@dcrnorthwest.com (mailto link: mailto:matt@dcrnorthwest.com)

Key takeaway: If you want a remodel you’ll still love in 10 years, you don’t start with tile. You start with truth.

1970s home remodel in Bend Oregon

what comes first when remodeling a house